Svickova na Smetane

What Makes Svickova Special

Svickova na smetane is widely considered the national dish of the Czech Republic. The name translates roughly to "sirloin in cream sauce," but that description barely scratches the surface. What you are actually making is a slow-braised piece of beef surrounded by a bed of root vegetables, aromatics, and vinegar — all of which eventually become the sauce itself.

The dish appears on virtually every traditional Czech restaurant menu, but the best versions are always homemade. Restaurant svickova is often rushed; the proper version requires patience, a good piece of meat, and a willingness to let the oven do its work over several hours.

According to the Wikipedia entry on svickova, the dish has roots in Austro-Hungarian cooking and became a staple of Czech bourgeois households in the 19th century. Today it is the centerpiece of Sunday family lunches across Bohemia and Moravia.

Ingredients

For the Meat and Marinade

• 1.2 kg beef sirloin or top round, trimmed
• 200 g smoked bacon, cut into lardons
• 2 medium carrots, roughly chopped
• 1 large parsnip, roughly chopped
• 1 medium celeriac, roughly chopped
• 2 medium onions, sliced
• 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 3 tablespoons sunflower oil
• 6 whole black peppercorns
• 4 whole allspice berries
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• Salt to taste

For the Sauce

• 300 ml beef stock
• 200 ml heavy cream (at least 30% fat)
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 tablespoon plain flour
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• Juice of half a lemon
• Salt and white pepper

To Serve

• Bread dumplings (houskovky knedliky), sliced
• Cranberry sauce or lingonberry jam
• Whipped cream (unsweetened)
• Fresh lemon slice

Method

Day One — Marinating

The day before you plan to cook, lard the beef by inserting strips of cold bacon into the meat using a larding needle or a thin knife. This keeps the meat moist during the long braise and adds depth to the sauce.

Place the vegetables, vinegar, spices, and oil in a deep dish. Nestle the meat among the vegetables, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. Turning the meat once or twice during this time is ideal.

Day Two — Braising

Remove the meat from the marinade and pat it dry. Reserve all the vegetables and liquid. Season the beef generously with salt.

Heat a heavy-bottomed casserole over high heat. Sear the beef on all sides until deeply browned — about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.

In the same pot, cook the marinated vegetables over medium heat until softened and lightly caramelized, about 8 minutes. Return the beef to the pot, add the stock and the reserved marinade liquid. The liquid should come about halfway up the meat.

Cover and braise in a preheated oven at 160°C (320°F) for 2.5 to 3 hours, turning the meat once at the halfway point. The beef is ready when a fork slides in without resistance.

Making the Sauce

Remove the beef and rest it under foil. Strain the braising liquid, pressing the vegetables firmly through a fine sieve to extract all their flavor. You should have about 400 to 500 ml of thick, dark liquid.

In a saucepan, melt the butter and whisk in the flour to make a light roux. Gradually add the strained braising liquid, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.

Add the cream, sugar, and lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt, white pepper, and a little more vinegar if needed. The sauce should be rich, slightly sweet, and gently acidic.

Serving

Slice the beef across the grain into portions about 1.5 cm thick. Arrange on warm plates alongside sliced bread dumplings. Spoon the sauce generously over the meat. Garnish with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, a spoonful of cranberry sauce, and a slice of lemon.

Notes and Variations

Some cooks add a small piece of dark chocolate or a splash of red wine to the sauce for extra depth. In Moravia, the sauce is sometimes made slightly thicker and served with potato dumplings instead of bread dumplings.

Leftover svickova reheats beautifully. The sauce actually improves after a day in the refrigerator as the flavors continue to develop. It also freezes well without the cream, which should be added fresh when reheating.

For further reading on Czech culinary traditions, the Czech Tourism food and drink guide provides useful regional context.